罩杯省量值与其纸样分割的关系

Analysis of relationship between the cup dart and pattern cutting

为了使罩杯达到理想的形状、做出美观、自然,舒适的文胸,通过对75B人模胸凸全省的实测,对罩杯纸样分割和省量的关系加以分析,找出胸凸全省分配规律,从而设计出符合胸部特征和美学方面要求的罩杯纸样.分析表明,在文胸设计中,款式造型的立体感是依靠罩杯分割线来完成的,通过收省或分割来达到立体的造型.结合人体胸部形态和罩杯省量分布的效果,得到罩杯省量的两种基本收取方式.一种方式是在胸围线处作水平分割,省量分布在前中心和肋侧;另一种方式是通过BP点作垂直分割,分别在胸围线上方和下方各形成一个省.在这两种基本收省方式的基础上,根据造型、功能形式美等要求来设计罩杯分割线.

In order to achieve the desired shape, to make beautiful, natural and comfortable bra, cup dart of 75B model form is measured, the cup pattern cutting and the cup dart are analyzed and the rule of the distribution of the cup dart is obtained. Then the cup pattern which is in line with the requirements of the characteristics of the breast and esthetics is designed. Analysis shows that the three-dimensional shape of the bra is based on the partition line of the cup, which means that the cup dart design and partition can help to achieve the three-dimensional style. Combined the effect of the distribution of the breast cup shape and the cup dart, two basic ways of cup dart can be obtained. One way is to make the horizontal split on the bust line in order to gain the cup darts which are distributed in the front center and the side of the ribs. The other way is to make the vertical division over the nipple in order to respectively form cup darts in the chest and the bottom line. On the basis of the two ways, the cutting lines can be designed according to the modeling, the functional requirements and so on.