赛络菲尔精纺毛织物风格及聚类分析

Fabric style and cluster analysis of worsted fabrics using Siro-filament yarn

以赛络菲尔纱线精纺毛织物为对象,应用扫描电子显微镜(SEM)观察织物表观形态结构,测试了织物风格(KES-FB型)、织物的服用性能(如织物动态悬垂性、织物的光泽、织物折皱弹性和织物透气性),并对织物进行了聚类分析.研究结果表明,赛络菲尔纱线精纺毛织物由于赛络菲尔纱线较紧密,织物交织点处有较大空隙,织物手感细腻、光滑.同时,赛络菲尔精纺毛织物平均摩擦系数(MIU)、弯曲刚度(B)、剪切变形角度5°剪切滞后量(2HG5)较小,摩擦系数的平均差不匀率(MMD)和表面粗糙度(SMD)较大,所以赛络菲尔精纺毛织物手感滑爽.织物样品聚类情况由主成份(F1和F2)做出分布图,并对22种织物样品进行了分类.

In regard of worsted fabrics using Siro-filament yarn,the morphology of fabrics were observed by Scanning Electron Microscopy（SEM）,the properties of fabric style and fabric wearability were measured,the classification based on the main technique for the fabrics were carried.The results show that the fabrics of which are made of fine filament blended with wool fibre exhibit finer,smart and smooth due to compact Siro-filament yarn,greater interspaces in the interlacing points of fabrics.The results also show that the handle of Siro-filament samples possess lower of the frictional coefficient（MIU） and bending rigidity per unit length（B） and hysteresis at shear angle 5.0 degree（2HG5）,larger of deviation of frictional coefficient（MMD） and mean deviation of surface roughness（SMD）,therefore they have not only smooth touch but also Shari hand.According to principal components（F1 and F2）,it is easy to draw the cluster plot of fabrics reflecting the arrangement of 22 fabrics.