近岸过程与海岸侵蚀机制研究进展

Progresses on Study of Nearshore Processes and Coastal Erosion Mechanisms

首先简单介绍了砂质海岸近岸地形动力过程的时空多尺度特征及其复杂性,海岸系统相互依存的3个方面和近岸带地形动力基本特征;进而从5个方面论述了国内外对砂质海岸侵蚀地形动力过程与机制研究的进展:1)长重力波运动与海岸侵蚀;2)近岸环流、波增水、底流运动与岸滩侵蚀;3)海滩-碎波带地形动力状态与岸滩侵蚀方式;4)波生沿岸流、沿岸输沙与海岸长期变化;5)海岸侵蚀终极平衡形态规律。最后概括了未来需优先探索的地形动力学问题和研究策略。

The multi-scale temporal and spatial variations and complexity of the nearshore morphodynamic processes at sandy coast are briefly introduced, and the three interdependent aspects of coast system and the basic morphodynamic features in the nearshore zone are also represented. The progresses in the study of sandy coast erosion mechanism and morphodynamic processes at home and abroad are discoursed from the following five aspects： 1） the movement of infragravity waves and the erosion of coast~ 2） the near- shore circulations, wave setup and undertow movement and the erosion of beach; 3） the morphodynamic states in beach-surf zone and the mode of beach erosion; 4） the wave-forced longshore currents and longshore sand transportation and the long-term changes of coast; and 5） the rules of shoreline erosion equilibrium form. Finally, the research strategies and the morphodynamic problems which need to be studied first in the future are outlined.