蚕丝织物组织结构对其表观颜色深度的影响

The Influence of the Organizational Structure on the Apparent Color Depth of Silk Fabric

采用活性、酸性染料对不同组织的蚕丝织物进行染色,包括真丝绡、双绉、顺序乔其、电力纺、斜纹稠等。测试了染料的上染性、提升性、织物的透射率、反射率,比较了上染率与表观颜色深度间的关系;分析织物组织结构对其镜面反射率、透射率的影响。结果表明,染色浓度提高,表观深度增加;上染率相同的品种,它们的表观深度随织物组织结构而变化,织物表面组织点少,结构紧密,镜面反射光强;织物对光的透过率越高,表观深度值越大。表观深度不仅与染料有关,更与织物的总紧度、纱线状态、组织结构等有密切的关系,织物的组织特性、纱线捻度及纺纱工艺等也是影响其表观深度的主要因素。

Two reactive dyes and two acid dyes were employed to dyeing of silk fabrics with different organizational structure,including silk voile,crepe dechine,crepon georgette, habutai, silk twill, and so on. The dyeing ability, building up property, fabric reflectance and transmittance were tested , it was contrasted with dye uptake and the apparent color depth of silk fabrics. The impact of their specular reflectance and transmittance on the organizational structure of the fabrics was analyzed. The results show that the apparent color depth is improved when the dyeing concentration is increased; For the same dye uptake,the apparent depth of fabrics varies with organizational structure, the woven points of the fabric surface are less, and high-density, the specular reflection of light on the fabric surface is intense. The higher the light transmittance of the fabric is, the greater the apparent depth value of it is. The apparent depth of the fabric has a close relationship not only with dye, but also with the overall tightness of the fabric, yarn, and its organizational structure