一种近岸区波浪破碎模型

A nearshore wave breaking model

从波浪破碎的能量关系入手，以紊流能量方程为基础，考虑破碎区内单个波在不同破碎阶段所提供的紊动能量强度的变化过程，提出了一种波浪破碎模式．通过将这一模型引入Boussinesq方程中，初步建立了一种近岸区波浪变形数学模型，并用波浪水槽实验资料对模型模拟波高和平均水位的情况进行了初步验证，得到了良好的结果．

A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking in the surf zone. The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Boussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave. The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation. Good agreements are obtained.