PTT长丝/天丝短纤复合纱面料的热加工设计

Design of the Thermal Processing for the Fabric of Composite Yarn Made of PTT Filament/Tencel Staple Fibres

为了充分发挥PTT长丝和天丝短纤各自的优良特性,形成优势互补,将PTT长丝和天丝短纤通过空心锭包覆和网络加工开发复合纱面料。本文针对PTT长丝/天丝短纤单纱空心锭包覆复合纱和PTT长丝/天丝短纤单纱网络复合纱面料的开发,探讨了PTT纤维的热加工性能及其与PTT长丝/天丝短纤复合纱面料设计的关系。结果表明,充分利用PTT纤维热加工对织物结构及性能变化的作用,优化面料设计方案,是实现PTT长丝/天丝短纤复合纱面料设计目标的关键,从而开发出了手感柔软滑爽、光泽柔和、弹性足且悬垂感强的新颖面料。

In order to give full scope to their staple fibre respectively, the two kind of advantages of both the PTT filament and Tencel fibres were combined to form a new type of composite yarns through the processing of core-spinning with hollow spindle and airentangling processes. To develop the new type of textiles with the composite yarns from PTT filament and Tencel staple fibre, the thermal processing properties of PTT and the relationship between the thermal processing properties of PTT and the design of the fabrics with PTT filament/Tencel staple fibre composite yarns were investigated. The results showed that, to meet the purpose of the fabric design with composite yarns so as to obtain fabrics with smooth and soft handle, gentle lustre, good elasticity and drape property from PTT filament/Tencel staple fibre, it is the key points to fully use of the thermal processing properties of PTT and its effect on the structure and properties of the fabrics, and optimize the fabric design.