基于缝口强度的丝绸面料缝纫形式与参数设计

Sewing form and parameter design of silk fabric based on seam strength

选取薄厚不同的两种真丝面料,采用实验方法,选择常用的平缝、压缉缝、内包缝以及垫布缝4种缝纫形式,以及线迹密度、缝纫线细度2个因素,其余缝纫条件在实验过程中保持一致,进行单因素下5次以上的测试实验,测试不同缝纫条件下真丝面料的接缝强力、断裂伸长率等特性。研究表明,随着线迹密度的增大,织物的断裂强力及断裂伸长率先增大后减小;随着缝纫线细度变细,断裂强力及断裂伸长率均减小;薄型丝织物面料的缝纫外观等级随着面料厚度的增加有所改善。以实际生产为例,找出了最佳工艺参数,提出了改善与提高真丝面料缝口性能的理论与方法,为真丝面料实际生产过程中常见问题的解决提供技术依据。

The experiment is conducted by choosing two kinds of silk fabrics with different thickness and four kinds of commonly used sewing forms as lockstitch, pressed stitch, inner stitch and cloth pad stitch and two factors of stitch density and sewing thread fineness. The other sewing conditions remain the same during the process of the experiment which has been conducted more than five times under the single factor. The seam strength and break elongation of the silk fabrics are measured under the different sewing conditions. The research shows that the breaking strength and break elongation of the fabric increase first and then decrease with the stitch density becoming fight while the breaking strength and break elongation of the fabric decrease with the sewing thread fineness becoming fine. The sewing appearance grade of the thin silk fabric will become better with fabric thickness increased. The experiment, based on the practical production, has found out the best processing parameters and gives the theory and methods to improve seam property of silk fabric, which provides technical basis and reference for common problem settlement in practical production of silk fabric.