社会性别与报刊中建构的刺绣印象——以1920—1925年《申报》为例

Social Gender and the Embroidery Image in Newspapers and Magzines——A Case Study of Shen Daily from1920 to 1925

20世纪20年代,《申报》上频繁登载的湘绣广告,利用文字和图像对刺绣印象进行了性别的重描,它为读者建构了模糊于"职业女性"与"闺阁女媛"之间的性别想像。将这种"女子刺绣"现象与报纸中呈现的女子刺绣学校、女子刺绣科目以及女子经济独立等图景相联系,有助于我们从女权运动的角度更加深入地理解报刊中建构的刺绣印象。另一方面,刺绣背后隐约的历史,包括男性经营绣庄、女子专攻刺绣的性别分工、男画师与女绣工经济收入的悬殊以及绣女姓名在湘绣款识中最终被隐去的历史等,都不同程度地与报刊中所彰显的妇女解放话语相背离。挖掘这些"无声之声",对全面了解刺绣历史以及当时的妇女历史都有重要的意义。

Advertisements of Hunan embroidery appeared frequently in the Shen Daily during 1920s.Those ads constructed a blurred image between ＂ the professional women＂ and ＂ the boudoir lady＂ through words and pictures.From the perspective of gender,we can understand such an image deeply if we relate the phenomenon of women＇s embroidery to the presentations in the Shen Daily,such as women＇s embroidery school subjects,and women＇s economic independence.We also try to examine historical facts,including gender divisions in male managed embroidery shops and female specialized embroidery,sharp distinctions of income between male painters and female embroiderers,and the final elimination of female embroider＇s name in Hunan embroidered seals.All of these contradicted the discourse of women＇s liberation.Exploring the ＂ silent voice＂ is singnificant for us to have a comprehensive understanding of the history of embroidery and even the hisotry of women＇s liberation.