黔东南岜沙苗族服饰研究

Research on Costume of Basha Miao Nationality in Southeast Guizhou

黔东南从江县丙妹镇月亮山麓的岜沙苗寨有着悠久的历史,全寨有300余户2000多人,其中仅有10余户是汉族。千百年来,他们刀耕火种、织布做衣,不与外族通婚,也鲜与外界交流,始终固守着本民族的生活方式和服饰习俗。在众多支系的苗族服饰中,岜沙苗寨的服饰并不是最精致和靓丽的,但其与众不同的风格和样式却是独有的。本文是作者深入岜沙苗寨进行田野调查,对岜沙苗族的织布、印染、服饰、刺绣,以及发式等方面进行了较为系统的研究后撰写的,旨在通过对这些服饰现象的分析和研究,探求其背后所体现出的着装习俗、审美观念和文化内涵。

The Basha Miao Village at the foot of the Moon mountain in Bingmei Town,Congjiang County in the southeast Guizhou has a long history.There are more than 300 families and 2000 people there,and only about 10 families are Han nationality.Through hundreds of years,they have been living by slashand-burn cultivation and weaving cloth to make clothes by themselves.They do not intermarry with other nationalities,and even do not communicate with others,by which to keep their own living style,custome and customs.Among so many branches of Miao nationalities,Basha Miao does not have the most delicate and pretty costume,but that of unique style and genre.The author did field investigation in the Basha Miao village,and did systematic study about its weaving,textile printing,costume,emboidery and hair style. Through analysis and research about these phenomena,this thesis aims to find out Basha Miaoys costume tradition,aesthetic standards and cultural connotation.