内衣生产技术元素配置方法的研究

Arrangement of underwear sewing production

为保证内衣缝纫的品质要求,织物、机针、缝纫线和缝纫机之间的配合非常重要。在缝纫时要注意缝纫参数的选择,如针杆要根据所用的缝纫线、面料的厚度来选用,针尖尽量使用小、中号的圆嘴式针尖,缝纫线主要使用涤纶和棉包芯线,缝纫机主要采用平台式、简式或整体式,同时可使用电脑全自动缝纫机以适应特殊部位的缝纫需要。缝纫的其他参数,如缝纫线的张力要根据缝纫面料、缝纫线和缝纫机而定,张力应尽量小以便更好地成圈和具有更佳的线迹外观。线迹类型主要采用300类的双线平缝、400类的双线绷缝、500类的包缝和600类的装饰绷缝,针脚密度为5～6针/cm。

In order to ensure underwear sewing quality, fabric, machine needles, sewing thread and sewing machine co - ordination are very important. Attention should be paid to sewing parameters selection. Needle bar has to he used in accordance with the sewing thread and the thickness of the fabric. Needle point has to choose small and medium style circular needle point, sewing thread should be polyester and cotton covered yarn, sewing machines could be platform - type sewing machines, overall short - form - type sewing machines and computer automatic sewing machines to meet special needs of sewing. In other sewing parameters, sewing thread tension ought to be determined by the sewing fabric with mininum sewing tension to make stitches better. The main type of used stitch is 300 two - thread plain stitch, 400 two - thread fiat seaming, 500 types of over seaming and 600 type of decorative fiat seaming. Pin density should be controlled in 5 - 6 pins/cm.