基于等分法的裤装结构设计

Research on pants structural design based on dividers france

通过对传统比例法裤装结构设计的优劣分析,探寻一种更合理、简便、适用性强的裤装结构构成方法。依据裤装结构各部位的比例关系,结合人体工学原理,采用等分法设定裤装各部位比例关系和结构点定位,以避免繁复的公式计算;设置裆定位标线,使横裆、后裆、小裆形成自动关联变化,运用裆位调节量实现裤装的性别特征设计;采用斜度比值法设定后裆斜线的斜度。

According to analyses on conventional proportion method applied in trousers structural design,a more reasonable,simple and applicable structures constitute of the pants methods were explored.Based on the ratio between different parts of the structure combined with ergonomic,the bisection method was used to set the proportion of relations in different parts of trousers and structural point of orientation,avoiding complicated formula.The ″crotch positioning standard line″ to cross crotch,after crotch,crotch was formed to automatically associate with small changes.The ″crotch-bit control variable″ was used to achieve gender characteristics of the design of trousers.The ″slope ratio″ method was used to set the slope of a slash after the crotch.