传统百衲织物的探源与分析

Source tracing and anlaysis of traditional Chinese patchwork

对百衲织物进行了定义,并追溯了其历史。在列举了历代若干有代表性的百衲织物后,从织物与色彩,形制与用途以及文化蕴意3方面探讨了百衲织物的研究价值,认为百衲织物因由多块织物拼接而成,故蕴含了丰富的织物信息,其织物结构和色彩纹样比单一织物显示出更多的时代特色;百衲织物形状多变,用途多样,它的产生与发展,与佛教"苦修"的理念有关,也与早期社会物资缺乏有所关联,更与它自身的"美"和人们祈福的美好愿望一脉相承。作为传统女红技艺的一份,百衲织物如何在现代社会中以"活"的形式保存下来,值得探讨。

The ″patchwork″ was defined and its history was traced back.After listing a number of patchworks from different dynasties,the article discusses the value of these patchwoks from three aspects： fabric and color,shapes and uses,as well as cultural meaning,then it gets the conclusion that the patchwork which has pieces of different fabrics sewn together,contains a wide range of information,its fabric weave,color and pattern can reveal more features than single fabric.Patchworks have different shapes and various uses.The emergence and development of it,have some connection with the Buddhism ″penance″ concept,and also concern with shortage of social goods in early days.Of course,its development is connected with its beauty and the desire of people to pray for a better life.As a part of traditional needlecraft,how to keep the patchwork in ″alive″ form is worthy of discussion.