染整工序对涤/粘仿毛织物风格的影响

Influence of dyeing process on the handle of T/R wool-like fabric

利用涤粘进行仿毛织物的设计及产品开发,经纬纱为涤/粘短纤维,其混纺比为涤/粘胶/氨纶为68/30.5/1.5,经纬纱线密度均为320.46 dtex,经纱单纱及股线捻向分别为Z、S捻,捻度分别为500,550捻/m。纬纱单纱及股线捻向分别为Z、S捻,捻度分别为400、600捻/m。织物组织2/2↗,面密度220 g/m2。同时根据化纤仿毛织物的染整工艺进行染整,研究坯布、成品织物以及经过预缩、预定形、碱减量、染色之后织物的风格变化,及染整工序对涤/粘仿毛织物风格的影响。

Using polyester and viscose blended yarn to design new wool-like fabric,the warp and weft yarn are staple fibers,its blending ratio for T/R/SP is 68/30.5/1.5,the linear density is 320.46dtex,the warp yarn twist is Z500 twisting/m,S550 twisting/m,however,the weft yarn is Z400 twisting/m,S600 twisting/m,the fabric weave is 2/2↗and the gram weight is 220 g /m2.According to the dyeing process and technology,the new product is treated with preshrinking process,reservation form,alkali finished and dyed.At last,this paper studies the variation and difference of handle and discusses their influence on the handle of wool-like fabrics.