清末民初马褂标本连裁肩袖线偏斜的纸样技术

Pattern Technology of the Shoulder-sleeve Line Deflection of the Jacket Specimen's Conterminous Cutting in the Late Qing Dynasty and the Early Republic of China

通过对清末民初马褂实物标本的测量与复原,发现古典华服的连裁肩袖线存在向前中偏斜,平面结构前身大于后身的现象.通过对衣片结构的模拟复原,运用平测和全息数据采集的方法,进行连裁肩袖线朝前中偏斜不同角度的系列实验,验证了此件马褂标本连裁肩袖线偏斜的结构,并确定了其偏斜角度的范围,此研究可以帮助我们更好地了解古典华服纸样设计的科学性和古人的智慧.

Based on the measurement and recovery of the jacket specimen in the end of Qing Dynasty and the Early republic of China, it is discovered that the shoulder-sleeve line in the conterminous cutting technology of the classical Chinese clothes has front deflection, and in the planar structure the front bodice is bigger than the back bodice. Through the simulated recovery of the bodice structure, using the method of flat measurement and holographic data collection, a series of experiments with different shoulder- shoulder-sleeve line deflective angles are carried out to verify the rensonable of the structure. The deflection structure of the conterminous cutting shoulder-sleeve line of this jacket specimens is proved and the deflective angle range of is obtained.