论《搜神记》对魏晋服饰风俗的政治文化阐释

The Political and Cultural Explanations to the Customs of Dress and Adornment in the Wei and Jin Dynasties in Sou Shen Ji

志怪小说《搜神记》中有两卷内容反映了汉末魏晋时期服饰风俗的变化,作者干宝对这种服饰风俗的变化表现出一种极大的贬斥态度,并对其作了政治文化方面的阐释。表面上这种阐释与传统服饰制度和流行于魏晋的"天人感应"说有关,实际上,这种阐释的根源还在于当时文化思想领域存在三大冲突,即玄学与儒学、汉族正统与北方少数民族以及男权思想和妇女解放的冲突等。

In Gan Bao＇s Sou Shen Ji,there were two pars of contents concerned with the new variations of the dress and adornment customs in the Wei and Jin dynasties,but Gan Bao strongly disliked and reproved the variations,and gave explanations of the variations from the view of politics and culture.The real reasons of the explanations are analyzed in this paper from three kinds of conflicts of ideology and culture.The conflicts are between the metaphysics and the Confucianism,the Han nationality and the minority nationality,and the male chauvinism and the emancipation of women.