黔东南苗族服饰艺术的原生态与创造表现

Originality and Creation of Clothing Arts of Miao People in the Southeast of Guizhou Province

黔东南苗族人民依山而居,伴水而住,与青山绿水朝夕相处,保持着原始的自然生态和原生的民族文化。黔东南苗族妇女对大自然充满了热爱,其服饰艺术素材几乎都取自自然环境,日月星辰、山峦原野、树木花草、鸟兽虫鱼在它们灵巧的手指间展示出写实而又简朴变形的图案、绚丽明快的色彩和蓬勃的生命力,反映了她们的心灵与自然和谐共生,相依相融;黔东南苗族服饰情趣飞扬,充满灵性,注重语言表达的生动性,其刺绣画面无论是山脉、云雾、河流还是动物大都以动态呈现,极富生命的韵律感;黔东南苗族服饰图案的构图严谨大方,极富想象,往往用刺绣烘托主体图形,如平绣、绉绣、锡绣、辫绣、叠绣、破线绣、锁绣等技法,有的还运用不同肌理的对比和半立体的浮雕装饰效果,使服饰图形疏密有致,富有独特的苗民族原生态艺术美感。黔东南苗族服饰艺术的创造表现则可反映在具象的描绘、抽象的表达、心象的流露和工艺的开拓上。黔东南苗族服饰艺术是典型的原生态文化和非物质文化遗产,是中国多元一体民族文化元素的重要组成部分,它具有彰显民族特征、强化民族意识和丰富创造表现的艺术价值。黔东南苗族服饰图形中天真浪漫的情趣,服饰色彩中生命本能的选择,既充满生机,又极具特色,值得现代艺术设计认真研究和借鉴。

Miao people originated from China and gathered in the southeast of Guizhou province.People have been living by riverside and mountains for thousands of years,and keeping harmonious relationships with nature.They also have been keeping the original culture and ecology of Miao people.Women in Miao people also keep their emotions for nature and their clothes reflect harmony with nature,mountains,trees,stars and animals.The generosity,imagination and vitality reveal their adoration of nature.Different skills also reveal the concrete depiction and abstract expression of Miao people.The innocence,natural choice and romance of Miao people are of instinct choices,vitalities and feature of this people and are worth of reference of modern arts.