Wool/PTT纤维混纺制品的一浴染色技术研究

A study of one bath dyeing of wool/PTT blends

研究PTT短纤和羊毛混纺制品的染色技术以及混纺纤维的细度和拉伸性能。包括Terasil分散染料对PTT纤维织物的染色性能和对羊毛的沾色性;Lanasol活性染料对羊毛织物的染色性能和对PTT的沾色性;Terasil分散染料和毛用活性染料在同浴染色中的相容性;pH值、温度、升温速度等工艺条件对PTT/羊毛混纺制品一浴染色中两种纤维同色性的影响。通过羊毛的碱溶率测试(按照澳大利亚标准)和FTIR图谱研究了不同染色温度和水处理温度下羊毛纤维的损伤程度。结果表明:细度相近的PTT短纤维与羊毛混纺可以提高羊毛制品的强度、抗变形性能而不失其柔韧性;PTT纤维属于易染型聚酯纤维,大部分Terasil分散染料在110℃左右即可达到其最大上染百分率;Terasil分散染料与Lanasol活性染料在小于120℃的弱酸浴中同浴染色具有很好的相容性;所研制的合适的染色工艺条件可以减轻Terasil分散染料对羊毛的沾色程度,使PTT和羊毛获得稳定的同色效果且耐洗色牢度优良,同时对羊毛纤维的损伤程度远低于常规的PET/羊毛混纺制品染色工艺。

This paper has investigated the dyeing of blends of ploytrimethylene terephthalate （PTr）staple and wool and the tensile properties of dyed samples of blend fabrics.Topics investigated include：the dyeing behaviour of Terasil disperse dyes on PTT fibre and their stanining on the wool component;the dyeing behaviour of Lanasol reactive dyes on wool and their staining on the PTr component;and the compatibility between Terasil disperse dyes and Lanasol reactive dyes in the same dye bath.The effects of processing parameters such as pH,temperature and the rate of temperature increase on union dyeing of PTT and wool also were examined.The degree of damage to wool fibres at different dyeing temperatures（with and without dyes）was measured using an Australian stan- dard testing method.The results have shown that blending PTT staple fibre with wool of similar micron diameters produces fabrics with improved strenght, deformation resistance and tensile elasticity while the soft handle of wool was retained.Most Terasil disperse dyes achieved the highest dyeuptake on PTT staple at 110 ℃;Terasil dyes and Lanasol dyes showed good compatibility in one-bath dyeing under weak acid conditions at temperatures lower that 120 ℃.An optimised dyeing technique was developed which minimized the staining problem of Terasil disperse dyes on wool and gave stable union-dyed wool/PTr blended products with high colour fastness,and lower damage to Wool than encountered with normal wool/PET blend dyeing processes.