四色经高密度数码提花丝织物的设计实践

Design practice on 4-color warps high density jacquard silk tapestry

四色经提花丝织物与中国传统纬显色丝织物不同,以4组彩色经线显花及高密度为主要特征。以数码设计技术应用为基础,结合西方棉型低密度多色经提花织物和中国纬显色丝绸织锦的设计特点及方法,提出了合理的四色经高密度提花丝织物的设计原理和方法,在满足交织平衡的技术前提下,按表、中、里层分别设计全息组织并建立组织库,通过设计实践具体描述四色经提花丝织物设计过程。

4-color warps jacquard silk fabric is figured by 4-grouping colored warp yarns and with high density.It is different form traditional Chinese weft-figuring silk fabric.In this paper,a practice method on 4-color warps high density silk tapestry is proposed based on the application of digital design technology and combining structure design methods and product technical characteristics both of western cotton low density multi-warp fabric and Chinese high density weft color presentation silk tapestry.Moreover,the design principles and methods of the gamut weaves and weave databases for face weave layer,backing weave layer,and stitching weave layer are introduced clearly under the requirement of balanced structure and by using the practical designing process example of 4-color warps high density jacquard silk tapestry.