三维服装表面接缝等级的客观评价

Objective Evaluation of Pucker in 3 - Dimensional Garment Seams

提出了一种三维立体服装表面接缝的客观评价方法,为了在三维空间描述服装接缝外表,在测试时,将样品放在5种不同的支持面上(平面,凸面,沿接缝的斜面,凹面,垂直接缝的斜面).样品的准备用了5种织物,每一种织物做了5个等级的样品,用激光扫描仪测试样品皱褶的幅值,然后用一个带通德波器德波.被滤掉的波包括纱线及织物结构引起的高频波,以及支持面外表形成的低频波,经过带通滤波器后,用4个统计参数描述接缝皱褶等级,同时对客观的4个统计参数与主现评价的等级(根据AATCC的标准)做回归分析,其中两个参数与皱褶等级之间具有良好的线性关系.

This paper considers the objective evaluation of the puckering of seams on 3 - dimentional garments. In order to simulate garment surfaces in three dimensions, seamed samples were supported on five different surfaces; plane (both with and without tilt) and curved (both convex and concave). A set of five samples having seams with varying degrees of pucker were prepared from each of five cloths and profiles parallel to the seam were measured using a laser distance scanner. These profiles were filtered using a band - pass Chebyshev filter (whether the 'frequencies' are measured in cycles/ m) to remove the high - frequency components contributed by the shape of the samples. The ' band - pass' filtered profiles were analyzed by calculating four satistical parameters and comparing these with the subjective AATCC grade. Excellent correlations was obtained for two of the parameters with the subjective pucker grades.