面料性能对平领重叠量及造型的影响

Research on influence of fabric performance on overlap and silhouette of flat collar

选用15种常见面料,采用文化式原型制作衣身样板,根据面料的不同特点,选用不同的重叠量,共绘制了11付领片纸样。通过分析研究平领重叠量与面料性能之间的关系,得出:在面料被测的参数中,厚度与重叠量的相关性最强,其次是经密、纬密、抗弯刚度、悬垂系数和面密度(其中,除经密、纬密与重叠量呈正相关外,其余均呈负相关关系);用于预测平领重叠量大小的模型为:Y=0.650-3.926X1+1.240X2-0.339X3(其中:Y为重叠量,cm;X1为负荷2cN/cm2的平均厚度,mm;X2为面密度,g/m2;X3为弯曲刚度,μN·m);重叠量越小的平领,领座越小,且领子近乎完全平贴在人体肩部,而重叠量越大的平领其领座也越大,且领面越直立于人体肩部。

Fifteen common fabrics were used to make flat collar with the Bunka pattern＇ s prototype and patterns of 11 flat collars with different overlaps were prepared. Then according to different fabrics＇ performance, different overlap＇s flat collars were chosen. Through researched and analyzed, the following conclusions had been drawn：among the tested performances, the relationship between thickness and overlap of flat collar was the closest. Warp and weft density, bending resistance, draping coefficient and weight per square meter came af- ter it. Warp and weft density and overlap of flat collar had positive relationship, while the others had negative relationship with overlap of flat collar. The model which could be used to predict overlap of flat collar was Y = 0. 650 - 3. 926X1 ＋ 1. 240X2 - 0. 339X3, which Y meant overlap （em） ;X1 meant the average thickness under load of 2 cN/cm2 （mm）;X2 meant weight per square meter （g/m2） ;X3 meant bending resistance （ixN ~ m）. The smaller overlap of flat collar, the smaller collar stands of flat collar, and this kind of collar would lie flat on human＇ s shoulder. While when fiat collar had bigger overlap, its collar stand would be bigger. And this kind of collar would stand over human＇ s shoulder.