精纺弹性羊毛织物的生产工艺研究

Production Technology of Worsted Elastic Wool Fabric

结合精纺 弹性羊 毛 织物 纱 线 纺制 、织 物 准备 与 织造 、染 整 工艺 设 计 等方 面 的 生 产 实践 情况，通 过对 生产 工艺 的理 论研 究、分 析，给 出了 各工 序的 主要 生产 工艺 与技 术要 点： 氨纶 丝与 包芯纱均采 用先到 先用原则 ；包芯纱 在纺制 过 程中 注意 控 制张 力 均匀 稳定 ，成 纱后 保 持较 大张 力 进行卷绕与 并捻；纬 弹织物生 产中注 意使卷纬 与织造 张力较小 而且 均匀， 减少 包芯 纱的 过度 拉伸； 经弹织物生 产中选 择较小的 织轴与卷 布辊卷 装，减小 内外层张 力差异； 后整理时 采用先煮 后洗工 艺。

Combining the production practice of worsted elastic wool fabric in the way of yarn spinning, fabric specification and process design, finishing process design, this paper analyzes theoretically and studies the process, gives main production process and technological essential of each process: For polyurethanes filament and core spun yarn, the manufacture often uses the early one that is supplied first; In processing core spun yarn, the yarn tension is properly controlled to make it even and stable, and then yarn is wound and twisted under slightly higher tension. In the manufacture of weft elastic fabric, in order to lessen over stretch of corespun yarn, the yarn tension of weft winding and weaving are properly controlled to make it small and even. In the manufacture of warp elastic fabric, loom beam and cloth beam with slightly litter capacity are selected, so that the yarn tension diversity between yarns of interior and outside is decreased. In the end, after potting process, fabric's washing step can be done during the finishing.