服装廓形至关重要的织物弧度塑形性的研究——评价方法与设计要领

Study on a Critical Property to Garment Silhouette-Radian Plasticity——Evaluation Methods and Designing Essentials

为定量考核织物的弧度塑形性,设计了贴近织物实际使用情况的直接评价方法.采用自制的塑形模型使织物产生弧度造型,并用弧度塑形高度H表征织物弧度塑形性的强弱.试验结果显示,用于不同服装廓形的面料的弧度塑形高度有很大差异.为探索方便易行的弧度塑形性的间接评价方法,定义了两个新指标:残余弯曲曲率和残余剪切变形.多元统计分析表明,可以用经向剪切滞后量评价织物经向及45°方向的弧度塑形性,而纬向弧度塑形性则可以用纬向残余弯曲曲率考核.分析总结了弧度造型面料的设计要领:以无捻或弱捻的低线密度聚酯长丝为原料,配以紧密组织结构织造,后整理工序不用减量加工技术.

In order to quantitatively assess the radian plasticity of fabrics,direct evaluation method which was close to the actual use of the fabrics was designed,using self-made shaping model to produce concavo-convex curved shapes,and arc height H was used for characterizing the radian plasticity of fabrics.Test results showed that arc height H of the fabrics using for different garment silhouettes were very different.Moreover,to explore a convenient indirect evaluation method for radian plasticity,two new parameters,residual bending curvature and residual shear deformation were defined.Multivariate statistical analysis showed that shear hysteresis of warp could be used for evaluating the radian plasticity of warp and 45° direction of fabrics,and arc height of weft could be assessed by residual bending curvature of weft.Finally,key points concerning design of fabrics using for garments with concavo-convex curved shapes were analyzed and summarized：use low linear density of polyester filaments with twistless or low twist as raw materials,coupled with dense texture,finishing processes without deweighting process technology.