论尤卡·格罗瑙的时尚观

Researches on Jukka Gronow's View on Fashion

尤卡·格罗瑙立足于现代资本主义社会的实际,运用凡勃伦、西美尔和利奥塔等人的观点,论述了时尚在现代社会中的地位和影响,揭示了消费社会的来临标志着时尚神话的降生,也标志着时尚作为一种意识形态的最终形成。他进而指出,作为大众文化重要部分的时尚是社会再生产和权力产生的关键机制,它具有阶级性和崇拜性、循环性和转瞬性、强制性和约束性、欺骗性和虚假性、创新性和破坏性等诸多特性。时尚作为一种现代性的文化和经济现象具有自身独特的发生机制和运行模式,它依赖于科技和生产力的发展,借助于广告等大众媒介对人们的日常生活产生着重大而全面的影响。

In light of the reality of modern capitalist society,Jukka Gronow discusses the status and influence of fashion in modern society by applying the theories of Veblen,Simmer and Lyotard,he reveals the arrival of consumer society marks the birth of fashion myth and fashion as the eventual formation of an ideology.He further points out fashion,as an important part of popular culture,is the key mechanism of social reproduction and power generation.Fashion has many features such as being class-oriented and worshipped.Fashion is also circular and transient,compulsory and restraint,fraud and false,innovative and destructive.As a modern cultural and economic phenomenon,fashion has its own unique mechanism of production and operation,dependent on the advancement of science and technology,and producing profound and comprehensive effects on people＇s daily life through advertising and other mass media.