莫高窟北周供养人服饰研究

The Costume Study of the Northern Zhou Providers in the Mogao Grottoes

以莫高窟北周第290、296、428窟部分供养人服饰为研究对象,指出北周在中国服饰文化史上具有导开先路的作用。第一,中国男子服饰两大体制萌芽于北周;第二,中国女子服饰在北周时出现了与传统服饰截然不同的新样,窄袖小衫配及腋长裙这一服装样式对隋唐女子服饰有着极大的影响;第三,北周时期大量引进胡服元素,促使中国服饰走向多元化。

With parts of the Northern Zhou providers in Grottoes No.290,296 and 428 as the study objects,this paper points out that the Northern Zhou Dynasty plays a leading role in the history of Chinese costume culture.Firstly,the two systems of Chinese men＇s costumes were originated in the Northern Zhou Dynasty.Secondly,Chinese women＇s costumes took on a new look in that period,which was completely different from traditional costumes.The fashion pattern of choli with tight cuffs and long skirts had a great effect on women in Sui and Tang dynasties.Thirdly,the great importation of Hu costume elements led Chinese costume to diversification.