新型弹性纤维纺织品染整(一)

Dyeing and finishing of textiles containing new elastic fibers(Ⅰ)

系统阐述各种弹性纤维,包括弹力丝、氨纶、聚醚酯弹性纤维、聚烯烃弹性纤维、硬弹性纤维、PTT和PBT纤维、复合聚酯弹性纤维等结构和性能,分析比较了它们的结构与弹性的关系,着重从这些纤维的弹性出发,分析含弹性纤维纺织品的染整加工特性。特别要指出的是,这类纺织品在染整加工时容易发生"蠕动"、"应力松弛"和"疲劳"现象(变形和回复不同于常规纺织品),应该合理控制染整加工时的温度、张力和时间,加工时尤其需注意松弛处理的重要性;着重介绍了几种弹性纤维纺织品的染整加工工艺和注意事项。

Structures and elasticity of various elastic fibers are illustrated comprehensively,including stretch yarn,polyurethane fiber,polyether ester elastic fiber,polyolefin elastic fiber,hard elastic fiber,PTT and PBT fibers,as well as compound polyester elastic fiber.The relationship between their structures and elasticity are analyzed.Dyeing and finishing properties of elastic textiles are emphatically introduced based on their elasticity,especially on the phenomena of creep,stress relaxation and fatigue（their strain and recovery are different from common textiles） during wet processing.Processing temperature,tension and time should be properly controlled,and the importance of relaxation processing is demonstrated.Several dyeing and finishing processes and points for attention of elastic textiles are also introduced.