用计算机对沿岸海浪现场观测的统计特征研究

Study on the Field Observations and Statistical Characteristics of Waves along the Coast

为了分析广西北海市沿岸的波浪特征,采用计算机对SZF型波浪浮标观测一个月（2008年6月份）的风浪过程资料,并对其进行了统计分析和谱分析,给出了波高和周期分布,以及特征波要素和波谱关系。结果表明,观测期间风向很稳定,以SW和S为主,风速主要在1~3级,2级风的出现频率为40%,1级风为25%,3级风的出现频率为24.2%;波高以3级为主,出现率达66%;主波向出现的频率主要在S向,占35.4%。从风向和浪向来看,S、SW向的波主要是风或外海海浪共同作用所致,但波向与风向一般都有一定的差别,综其原因是风速和风向的变化较快,而波浪的变化有一定的延迟所致,实测波高分布与瑞利分布基本相符。

In order to analyze the coastal wave characteristics of the Beihai City in Guangxi,in the paper,by using SZF wave buoy observations for one month（June 2008） during the storms,and their statistical analysis and spectral analysis was carried out,and the wave height and the periodic distribution were given,as well as the characteristics wave elements and spectrum relationship.The results showed that： the wind direction during the observation was very stable,mainly SW and S-based,with wind speed at 1 to 3,and force s wind at frequency of 40%,force 1 wind at 25%,force 3 wind at 24.2%.Wave height was mainly force 3 wind,at frequency of 66% and the dominant wave frequencies was mainly in S,accounting for 35.4%.From the wind and waves,S and SW wave were mainly resulted from the wind or the combination effects of waves from other seas,but there were certain differences between the wind and waves in general,for the faster change of wind speed and direction,and the wave of change was delayed to some extent.In fact,the measured wave height was basically in line with distribution of Rayleigh distribution.