试论中国传统服装美学与西方服装美学的差异

Study on Discrepancies Between Chinese Traditional Clothing Aesthetic and Western Clothing Aesthetic

服饰是透射一个民族艺术哲学理念的重要窗口。中国传统服装美学一方面受到儒家礼教规范及伦理道德的影响,注重"美"与"善"的相似性,缺乏对人体之美的正视与研究,把服装审美创作看作传播教化、塑造人格、维护礼制的形象表征,遮蔽人体曲线,宽衣博带;另一方面在道家思想统摄式思维观照下,追求衣饰与人体在整体审美上的和谐,淡化人体特征而凸显精神气韵。西方服装美学注重"美"与"真"的共同点,求真务实地强调人体曲线,以探求表现人体的本质美为审美理想。如何承袭中国传统美学智慧,又借鉴西方服装美学求真精神,创造出中国服装独有的时代语言,是中国当代服装设计师们面临的一个意味深长的课题。

Clothing can reflect philosophy of ethnic art. Chinese traditional clothing aesthetic is influenced by Confucius , paying more attention to the similarity between ＂ beautiful＂ and ＂ kindness＂ and less attention to the study of figure of people , regarding clothing design as symbol of culture communication and character - building. On the other side, they pursue harmony between clothing and figure of people. While western clothing aesthetic lays emphasis on common points between ＂ good＂ and ＂true＂ and stress the figure of people. The problem that Chinese contemporary clothing designer face is how to design clothing with Chinese characteristics by inheriting Chinese traditional aesthetic and adopting western clothing aesthetic.