驳领翻折基点和翻领松度的研究

Study on the roll basic point of lapels and the degree of lapel ease

驳领是所有领型中造型变化最丰富、结构设计最复杂、应用最广泛的领型之一。利用Lectra服装CAD系统,采用正交试验设计方法,探讨了领座倾斜角度、领座高和领面宽这3个因素对驳领翻折基点位置和翻领松度的影响。研究表明:在3个因素中,领面宽对翻领松度的影响最显著,领座高对翻折基点位置的影响最显著。翻折基点到SNP点的距离与领座高的比值在0.5～0.9之间。

Among all kinds of collars, lapels is the one who has various changes of modeling, the most complicated structure and widely used. Using apparel CAD system and orthogonal experimental design, the situation of lead angle of inclination, the collar stand and collar over affect on the position of rolled basic point or the degree of lapel ease together were discussed. The research indicates ： in these three factors, the collar over influences the degree of lapel ease significantly, and the collar stand influences the position of rolled basic point significantly. The ratio of the distance from the position of rolled basic point to SNP and the collar stand is between 0.5 and 0.9.