碱性条件提取艾草天然染料及其真丝绸染色

Alkaline extraction of natural dye from mugwort and its dyeing on silk fabric

用氢氧化钠水溶液提取艾草天然染料,讨论了氢氧化钠浓度、提取温度、提取时间、料液质量比等对艾草天然染料提取效果的影响,讨论了艾草天然染料直接染色真丝绸时染色pH值、染色温度、染色时间、硫酸钠浓度、染料浓度等对染色效果的影响。研究结果表明,艾草氢氧化钠水溶液提取物染色真丝绸比艾草水提取物染色真丝绸的颜色更浓。艾草天然染料提取的优化工艺为:氢氧化钠0.3 mol/L、提取温度100℃、提取时间50 min、料液质量比1∶35。艾草提取液对真丝绸直接染色的优化工艺为:染色pH5.0,染色温度90℃,染色时间60 min,硫酸钠50 g/L,浴比50∶1。此外,艾草碱性提取物染色真丝绸有较好的牢度性能,媒染对染色真丝绸染色牢度提高效果不明显。

Natural dye from mugwort was extracted with NaOH solution. This paper discussed influence factors on extraction results, such as NaOH concentration, extraction temperature, extraction time, solid to liquid, and discussed influence factors on dyeing results of silk fabrics, such as dyeing pH, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, Na2SO4 concentration, and dye dosage. It was found that the dyed silk fabrics with NaOH solution extracts from mugwort had better colour strength than the dyed silk fabrics with extracts obtained in water. The optimum conditions for the extraction were as follows： NaOH 0.3mol/L, extraction temperature 90℃, extraction time 40min, solid to liquid 1 ： 35. The optimum conditions for the dyeing on silk fabrics were as follows： pH value 5.0, dyeing temperature 90℃, dyeing time 60min, Na：SO4 50 g/L, bath ratio 50 ; 1. Furthermore, the dyed silk fabrics with alkaline extracts had moderate fastness properties and that mordanting did not result in any significant improvement in fastness properties.