棉嵌金银丝提花面料

Wet processing of cotton jacquard fabrics embedded metallic thread

分别采用酶退浆煮练-氧漂二浴法和酶退浆-奥斯本漂白冷堆法,对纯棉嵌金银丝提花交织物匹染面料进行前处理,比较了两种工艺对半成品质量的影响。结果表明,采用多功能退浆酶-奥斯本漂白冷堆法(H2O280 g/L,冷堆24 h),织物白度和毛效均能满足要求,且对织物强力损伤较小,对金属丝无明显影响;后续对织物进行170℃热定形和液氨+潮交联树脂整理,可提升面料的附加值。

Two pretreatment processes of enzyme desizing-scouring-oxygen bleaching in two bath and enzyme desizing-Osbon bleaching in cold pad-batch are applied to jacquard cotton fabrics embedded metallic thread separately. The influences of the two pretreatment processes on quality of the semi-products are compared. The results show that using the latter process with H2Oz 80 g/L and cold batching for 24 h, the whiteness and capillary effect of the treated fabric can meet the requirements, with less damage to fabric strength, and without significant effect on metal thread. Then heat setting at 170℃ and liquid am- monia ＋ moisture cross-linking DP finish are carried out, the added-value of fabrics can be enhanced.