解构主义在服装设计中的应用

Deconstruction in Fashion Design

解构理论以德里达的哲学理论为基础,其核心理念就是推翻固有的模式,建立新的秩序。服装中的解构分为理念和技巧两方面的运用。设计手法表现为:(1)拒绝"综合"观念,改向"分解"观念;(2)拒绝传统的使用与形式间的对立,转向两者的叠合或交叉;(3)强调碎裂叠合及组合,分解服装系统的界限,提出新定义。当下的服装设计中显现出三种伪解构主义:(1)对解构的不理解;(2)文本的意义代替了设计;(3)消极的理论倾向。解构的设计要发展,首先有赖于对解构设计的了解,及设计师对思维的高度要求的共同努力,以及对解构的积极方向的导引。解构在服装中已成为主流之一,并将继续流行。随着人们对理性的回归,解构作为理念将适度回转。解构作为技巧必将走向成衣化,最终成为服装设计的常用手段。

Deconstruction theory is based on Derrida philosophy.Its core ideology is to break the existing patterns and build new orders.The application of Deconstruction in fashion design falls in two aspects：ideology and skill.The demonstrations in designing are：（1） to refuse the concept of ＂synthesis＂,and to turn to the concept of ＂decomposition＂,（2） to refuse the traditional opposition between use and form,and to turn to superposition and crossover between the two,（3） to emphasize on fragmental superposition and combination,to decompose the limits of fashion design system,and to make new definitions.Deconstruction appears in three pseudo-deconstructionists in modern fashion design：（1） failure to understand Deconstruction,（2） the substitution of textual meaning over design,（3） negative theoretical tendency.Understanding of the deconstructionism design,designers＇ effort in upgrading their thinking,and a positive guide are all vital to the development of deconstruction design.Deconstruction has become mainstream in fashion design,and will continue to be prevalent.As the world returns to rationality,deconstruction as ideology will see a modest recession.However,Deconstruction as skill is bound to be applied in ready-to-wear producing,and will finally become a common approach in fashion design.