汉宫审美的变迁——兼与李芽、陈东杰《汉代后妃形貌考》商榷

The Changes of Beauty Standards in the Palaces of the Han Dynasty——Discussing with Li Ya and Chen Dongjie

考论汉代后妃之形貌,应该依据汉代史料,而不是依据《汉宫春色》《汉杂事秘辛》等晋人、明人小说家言;应该对汉代内部审美观变革进行历史的审视和划分,而不是笼统地不加分析地一概而论。一时代之审美观决定了彼时皇宫采选、聘纳妃嫔时的标准是不同的,从而可推知汉代后妃的形貌究竟如何。汉代皇宫内审美观有明显的变迁:西汉皇宫审美观受楚地风尚的影响甚大,而东汉尤其是永平十年之后其审美观开始受佛教法相说之影响。西汉后妃形貌之审美,似多以细腰、纤瘦为美,而东汉后妃形貌的审美,则在传统审美观的基础之上,受到了佛教三十二法相、八十好之"面如满月"、"耳大垂肩"、"鼻高且直"等的影响。

The investigation of the beauty of the imperial concubines in the Han Dynasty should be based on the historical materials,but not on the novels written in the Jin or Ming Dynasty.On the other hand,the changes of beauty standards in the Han Dynasty should be investigated and divided historically,but not be treated all alike.The aesthetic concept in one period means the different standards to select imperial concubines in other periods,from which the imperial concubines＇ appearances can be inferred.Generally,there are distinctive changes in the beauty standards in the Han Dynasty.In other words,the beauty standards for imperial concubines in the Western Han Dynasty are greatly influenced by Chu fashion,while in the Eastern Han Dynasty by Buddhism.