时装:波德莱尔审美现代性思想的参照和象征

Fashion,the Symptom and Reference of Baudelaire's Esthetic Modernity

波德莱尔美学思想的研究者一般都认为,在《现代生活的画家》中,波德莱尔主要是以介绍与自己同时代的法国画家贡斯当丹.居伊为契机,展开自己关于审美现代性的论述的。但是,从服装史的角度看,在《现代生活的画家》中,波德莱尔是以一个艺术评论家、美学理论家最敏锐的视角,主要以服装、尤其以不断变化的服装即时装作为观察和研究对象,论述他的审美现代性思想的,从而开创了美学史上一个划时代的认识上的转变,即从一种由来已久的永恒性美学转变到一种瞬时性与内在性的美学,其核心价值是变化和新奇。时装是波德莱尔论述审美现代性思想的主要参照和象征。

Former researchers about Baudelaire＇s idea think that he introduces his esthetic modernity idea through Constantin Guys,a French painter in the book The Painters of Modern Life.However,I think,as a researcher of costumes history,Baudelaire ＇s idea in the book of The painter of Modern Life explained his esthetic modernity idea with incessant changing fashion from an acute observing angle.Thus his theory outset the newest epoch of understanding changes in aesthetics history,from an already established to a transient and inherent aesthetics,whose nucleus value is change and novelty.At last,fashion is the symptom and reference of Baudelaire＇s esthetic Modernity idea.