拜罗伊特的三个夜晚

Three nights at Bayreuth

拜罗伊特音乐节有两张面孔，第一个让人见到的是传统。去这个音乐节是一件极传统慎重的事。这个瓦格纳为《指环》特别建造的歌剧院，每年只用一个月，而且只演十部瓦格纳的歌剧。可能等了十年才等到票的观众，排出时间空当，来到这个别无他事可做的巴伐利亚小城，忍受比平常贵好几倍的旅馆价钱，只为能在“瓦教主”的“教堂”里聆听他的“圣乐”。

Bayreuther Festspiele has two faces.One is ultra-traditional.Everything surrounding those attending the festival, from the long wait of getting tickets,dressing up for the opera,the repertoire it presents, to the amenity of the Festspielhaus,is just the way it was when Wagner built it to stage his Ring cycle 135 years ago.But once you enter the theater,what's presented on stage often bears no resemblance to Wagner' s stage descriptions.This is the avant-garde, or Regietheater,side of Bayreuth.The last three performances I attended this year—Lohengrin, Parsifal and Tristan unci Isolde—bore the imprint of Regietheater.