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The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water
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摘要 Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation, the following problems are analyzed in the present study:the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents, the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves, the breaking criteria of irregular waves, a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope, the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents. Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation, the following problems are analyzed in the present study:the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents, the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves, the breaking criteria of irregular waves, a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope, the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents.
出处 《Acta Oceanologica Sinica》 SCIE CAS CSCD 1996年第2期261-272,共12页 海洋学报(英文版)
关键词 Wave transformation wave breaking directional wave spectrum Wave transformation wave breaking directional wave spectrum
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