摘要
本文就近岸波浪具有非线性特征提出了应用椭圆余弦波理论来研究波浪浅水变形的非线性问题。本文在椭圆余弦波数值计算的基础上，进一步分析了浅水波浪在ＨＬ~２／Ｄ~３＞２６情形下波高的变化规律，其中考虑了床面底摩擦、底坡和传质水流等因素对波高变化的影响及相应的程度分析。计算结果分析表明，浅水波浪的非线性性质和底部摩擦对波高变化的影响不能忽略，这对确定海岸工程标高有较大的实际意义和经济价值。
Wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for cnoidal wave are used to find an analytical solution to the problem of nearshore wave height variation on a simple topography,i.e. with incrementally constant slope, The solution accounts for shoaling,frictional dissipation and will be sufficiently accurate for practical purposes considering the simplified assumptions that are necessary for the treatment of this problem by any method.
出处
《海洋工程》
CSCD
北大核心
1994年第4期59-72,共14页
The Ocean Engineering
关键词
波浪
非线性
底摩擦
wave, nonlinear,bottom friction
