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PROPAGATION AND BREAKING OF WAVES ON SLOPING BEACH

PROPAGATION AND BREAKING OF WAVES ON SLOPING BEACH
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摘要 In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidal wave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMAC method,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracing method.The.numerical results for wave deformation are in good agreement with experimental data,and the breaker indexes depending on the kinetic criterion agree approximately with previ- ous results.Furthermore,compared with the experimental results measured by Iwagaki and by the authors,the tendency of velocity distribution of breaking waves computed by this numerical method is also satisfactory. In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidal wave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMAC method,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracing method.The.numerical results for wave deformation are in good agreement with experimental data,and the breaker indexes depending on the kinetic criterion agree approximately with previ- ous results.Furthermore,compared with the experimental results measured by Iwagaki and by the authors,the tendency of velocity distribution of breaking waves computed by this numerical method is also satisfactory.
机构地区 Tianjin Univ
出处 《Journal of Hydrodynamics》 SCIE EI CSCD 1993年第1期1-9,共9页 水动力学研究与进展B辑(英文版)
关键词 MAC method breaking wave sloping beach wave deformation MAC method breaking wave sloping beach wave deformation
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