桑蚕丝织物茶皂素脱胶工艺研究

Study on degumming process of mulberry silk fabrics with tea sapogenin

为减轻桑蚕丝化学脱胶造成的环境污染,节能降耗,采用茶皂素冷轧堆工艺对桑蚕丝织物进行脱胶处理,通过正交试验分析了茶皂素质量浓度、氢氧化钠质量浓度、保险粉质量浓度、堆置时间对织物练减率及白度的影响,得出茶皂素冷轧堆脱胶最佳工艺为:氢氧化钠8 g/L,茶皂素7 g/L,保险粉3 g/L,堆置时间18 h。结果表明,织物经茶皂素冷轧堆脱胶后,可以达到与传统的皂碱煮沸脱胶法相近的白度、毛效和练减率,断裂强力略有降低,但是织物弹性提高。

In order to reduce the environmental pollution caused by the chemical degumming of silk,the mulberry silk fabric was degummed by cold-pad-batch method using tea sapogenin.The effects of concentration of NaOH,tea sapogenin,Na2S2O4 and batching time on the whiteness and weight loss were discussed through the orthogonal experiment.The optimal conditions were NaOH 8g/L,tea sapogenin 7g/L,Na2S2O4 3g/L and batching time 18h.The results showed that after degumming with cold-pad-batch method,the properties have not significant differences in the whiteness,weight loss and capillary effect.However,the crease recovery angles of treated silk fabrics increased.