徽州菜肴的地理表征及感知分析

Analysis of geographical representation and perception in Huizhou cuisine

菜肴是饮食文化中最具有代表性的部分,自然地理条件为菜肴的形成和发展提供了可能性与现实性,并在一定的人文地理环境下改进与发扬,形成菜系的特色。起源宋代,清朝至民国达到鼎盛、诞生于安徽南部的徽菜地方特色显著,擅长烹制山珍野味,菜品咸鲜、突出本味,讲究食补与养生,烹制过程中讲究重油、重色、重火功,充分反映着徽州山区地理环境对菜肴特征的影响,通过徽商的推广跻身于我国的八大菜系之列。本文在徽菜发源地进行了调研和问卷调查,并进行徽菜的感知差异分析,指出随着现代生产方式与生活条件的改变,尤其是随着旅游业的兴起和人们对健康的日益重视,徽菜既需要不断进行改良,也将迎来新的发展契机。

Cuisine is the most typical part of a food culture. The natural geographical condition provided the possibility and reality for the forming and developing of a cuisine, while certain human geographical environment has helped the cuisine to gain its peculiarity. Huizhou cuisine, born in the south of Anhui Province, can be traced back to the Song Dynasty and it reached its highest level during the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China. With significant local characteristics, Huizhou cuisine is good at cooking various kinds of delicacies from land and mountains. It is characterized by emphasizing taste in itself, dietetic invigoration and health preserving, with valuing heavy oil, color and heat, which reflects the influence of the geographical environment on the cooking. Promoted by Huizhou merchants, Huizhou cuisine is listed in the eight main cuisines in China. Based on investigation and survey, this paper points out that with the change and improvement of modern mode of production and people＇s living conditions, especially with the rising tourism and increasing importance attached to health by people, Huizhou cuisine needs to be improved to seize new opportunities for local economic development.