羊毛表面特征对针织物起毛起球的影响

Effects of wool fiber surface characteristic on fuzzing and pilling of knitted fabrics

针对羊毛针织物易起毛起球的现象,通过对未处理、氯化+树脂处理、氧化处理的羊毛纤维形态和相关性能进行表征,研究经不同方式表面处理后纤维表面和形态对其针织物起毛起球性能的影响。利用扫描电镜(SEM)对纤维表面形貌进行观察;用原子力显微镜(AFM)对鳞片平均厚度和纤维表面粗糙度进行测量、计算;用三维视频显微镜对纱线毛羽成像;用针织物起球箱进行起毛起球对比实验。结果表明:氧化处理的羊毛纤维表面鳞片被部分剥离、破坏,鳞片厚度降低,纤维表面可见皱缩状沟槽;纤维顺、逆鳞片摩擦因数降低,其纱线表面毛羽较少;AFM结果与摩擦性能测试结果基本一致;针织物的起球等级为2.5级,平均起球个数为25个/25 cm2。

In view of the pilling tendency of knitted wool fabrics,the morphology and properties of wool fibers of the untreated,chlorine-resin treated,and oxidation treated were characterized with a view to investigating the effects of fiber surface morphology after different treatments on the fuzzing and pilling of the knitted fabrics.The fiber morphology was observed by scanning electron microscopy（SEM）.The measurement and calculation of the thickness of fiber scale and surface roughness was conducted by atomic force microscopy（AFM）.Yarn hairiness was imaged by a three-dimensional video microscope.The comparative experiments of fuzzing and pilling of the knitted fabrics were performed with the pilling tester.The results show that after oxidation treatment,the surface scales of wool fibers were partially cleaved,thickness of scale reduced,some grooves generated on the surface,both with-scale and against-scale friction coefficients decreased,and yarn hairiness decreased as well.The results of AFM were basically in agreement with the tested values of frictional performance;and the pilling rating of the knitted fabric of oxidized wool fibers was 2.5,and the average numbers of pilling per 25 cm2 were 25.