基于95°领座侧倾角的翻领松量设计

Design of overturned collar looseness based on collar roll angle of 95°

对女装翻领结构的重要影响数据翻领松度进行分析.采用日本文化式原型160/84A的衣身原型作为基础,设定衣身领座侧倾斜角α为95°,利用平面作图方法,设计不同的领座高和翻领宽,并以此绘制相匹配的领部造型.测量分析各组翻领宽、领座高配合时的翻领松度的数值,并通过统计分析软件SPSS进行最后的线性分析,推导出相应数学模型分析翻领宽、领座高及翻领松度3者之间的关系.实验表明:所得的翻领松度适宜,衣领造型形态美观;在实际应用中可以运用本文所得公式,根据设定的翻领宽度及领座高直接得出匹配的翻领松度,完成领部参数的设计.

The overturned collar looseness which is important for the lapel structure of woman＇ s dress is analyzed. The experiment adopts Japanese cultural prototype 160/84A as the basic clothing body, and the collar roll angle α is set as 95 °. Under those conditions mentioned above, suitable collar models are designed in 2D matching with different collar stands and collar widths. Then overturned collar looseness is recorded. Through statistical analysis software SPSS, the mathematical model of relationship between collar width, collar stand and collar looseness are derived. Sample test shows that the experimental looseness fits well, and the sample collars have decent shapes. Thus, the collar looseness can be obtained directly through the formula in practical applications when collar stands and widths have been known.