制服类面料低负荷下的力学性能对服装成形性的影响

Effect of the mechanical properties under low load of uniform fabrics to clothing formability

通过KES系统研究了不同织物密度和后整理工艺调整对织物经纬向在低负荷下的拉伸、弯曲、剪切性能的影响,制作了曲面造型,分析了不同性能的织物曲面造型的难易程度。研究表明,面料在低负荷下的力学性能,尤其是剪切性能直接影响了面料制成服装的成形性。且同一种织物存在最佳工艺配制点,超过这个点后,某一类型服装造型的成形性显著降低。织物经、纬向的弯曲和剪切性能相互影响显著,经密或纬密变化将同时导致经向和纬向2个方向上的弯曲和剪切性能变化,而经、纬向拉伸性能则相互影响较小。对于制服类面料,尤其是适体性的制服类面料,应该注意到织物在低负荷下的力学性能,并进行规范。

The paper discusses the tensile and bending and shearing properties under low load of fabrics with various density and finishing processes,analyzes the clothing formability of these fabrics.The mechanical properties,especially shearing properties under low load directly affect the formability of clothing.For the same kind of fabrics there has a best technical balance point which would provide the best clothing shaping ability.The bending properties and the shearing properties are greatly relative,they in the weft direction and in the wrap direction will all change the values if only the density of one direction change.But the tensile properties between the weft direction and the wrap direction are less relative.The mechanical properties under low load of the uniform fabrics would be specificated,especially of the fabrics using for body-fitting clothing.