羊绒染料应用现状与展望

Application status and prospect of cashmere dyestuff

文章对羊绒所用染料进行了介绍,并就染料的安全与环保问题进行了讨论,并对未来染料发展进行了展望。在羊绒染色中,酸性染料特别是强酸性染料,染色湿牢度差,且相当一部分酸性染料属禁用染料;酸性媒介染料染色工艺复杂,且在生成络合物时,织物色光通常变化很大,不易调整,其中的铬媒染料对环境污染更加严重;金属络合染料染色色光萎暗,染色过程复杂、染色时间长(5～7 h)、能耗大、设备利用率低、羊绒损伤严重,1∶1金属络合染料对纤维的损伤大,1∶2金属络合染料则匀染性差,色谱不全;活性染料具有色泽鲜艳、色谱齐全,但活性染料的固色率不高。

Cashmere dyed commonly used with acid dyes,acid mordant dyes,metal complex dyes,reactive dyes,etc.In cashmere dyeing,acid dyes,especially strong acid dyes,dye wet fastness is poor,and a considerable part of the acid dyes are banned dyes.Acid dyeing process complicated,and in generating complex,the fabric shade is usually highly variable,difficult to adjust.Chrome mordant dye which is more serious environmental pollution,metal complex dyes wilt shade dark,complex process of dyeing,dyeing for a long time（5~7 h）,energy consumption,utilization is low,cashmere injury severity,1∶1 metal complex dyes for fiber damage large,1∶2 metal complex dye levelness is poor and chromatography is incomplete.Reactive dyes with bright color,chromatography complete,but the reactive dye fixation rate is not high.This article introduces cashmere dyeing,discusses the safety and environmental issues of dyes,and the future development prospect of dyes.