化妆品基质原料对α-熊果苷美白功效及稳定性的影响

Effects of base materials of cosmetics on whitening efficacy and stability of α-arbutin

通过构建酪氨酸酶催化反应体系,研究化妆品基质原料对α-熊果苷美白功效的影响。结果表明,实验中使用的表面活性剂Tween 80,脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸钠(AES),脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚(AEO9)和保湿剂丙三醇及防腐剂尼泊金甲酯均对酪氨酸酶有抑制作用,它们与α-熊果苷对酪氨酸酶的抑制作用表现出共抑制效应;所选的金属离子(铜离子、镁离子)对酪氨酸酶有激活作用,铜离子的激活作用远大于镁离子,约为其75倍。采用高效液相色谱法分析化妆品基质原料对α-熊果苷稳定性的影响,α-熊果苷的稳定性通过分析α-熊果苷是否分解产生氢醌来评价。结果表明,α-熊果苷在表面活性剂Tween 80,AES,AEO9和保湿剂丙三醇以及金属离子(铜离子、镁离子)的溶液中稳定性良好,均未检出氢醌;α-熊果苷在防腐剂尼泊金甲酯中稳定性差,在尼泊金甲酯溶液中分解产生氢醌的质量分数达到4.45%。

The effects of base materials in cosmetics on whitening efficacy of α- arbutin were investigated by establishing a tyrosinase catalyzed reaction system. The results showed that there were inhibition effect on the mushroom tyrosinase by the surfactants （ Tween 80, AES, AEO9 ） , moisturizer （ glycerin）, and preservative （ methyl 4 - hydroxybenzoate）, and the inhibition effect of each of them incorporated withα- arbutin showed an conjugated inhibitioia action on tyrosinase. Metal ions （ Cu^2＋ and/or Mg^2＋ ）, showed activation effect on tyrosinase and the activation capacity of Cu^2＋ was far higher than that of Mg^2＋ , about 75 times. The effects of base materials in cosmetics on stability of α - arbutin were studied by HPLC via the detection of the content of hydroquinone formed by the decomposition of α - arbutin. The results showed that α - arbutin performed good stabilities in the solution of the surfactants （ Tween 80, AES, AEO9 ） , moisturizer （glycerin） and the metal ions （ Cu^2＋, Mg^2＋ ） because of no hydroquinone wffs formed ; but it proved that stability of α - arbutin in methyl 4 - hydroxybenzoate solution was not good since the content of hydroquinone achieved 4. 45 %.