“法出波斯”:“三勒浆”源流考

“It Is From Persia”:An Exploration of the Origin of Sanlejiang

"三勒浆"是唐代从波斯传入的一种果品饮料,本出自印度,由"三果"(诃梨勒、毗梨勒、庵摩勒)配制而成。三勒浆成为唐代上层社会的一种时尚饮品;宋代南方与之相关的诃子汤、余甘子汤则声名北被;元代许国祯更使三勒浆重现短暂的风光;明清以降,尽管三勒浆已几乎不再酿制,但相关知识在文献中代有传递,人们仍然试图保持对唐代风物的历史记忆。三果在古代印度的医疗与饮食中占据重要位置,且有相关的神话式描述相匹配。波斯、阿拉伯医学文献及《回回药方》多处记载了"三勒"的入药与入饮,说明其在波斯、阿拉伯地区是比较流行的,这与"三勒"在中土的流传颇有差异,原因在于波斯、中国与印度之间文化的不同。作为文化的中转站,波斯不仅为印度这一饮食习俗的向外传播提供了二度契机,而且使这一习俗在中土"披上"了波斯风物的美妙"外衣"。因此,中、印、波三地某些饮食习俗的传递与吸纳,体现的是三地文化和宗教之间的差异、选择与互动。

Sanlejiang is a kind of fruit drink that originated in India and was introduced into China via Persia in the Tang dynasty.It was made up of three kinds of fruit(三果sān guǒ),respectively halila,balia and amolain Persian and haritaki,vibhitaka,and amalakain Sanskrit.It was a fashionable drink of the upper classes in the Tang dynasty.During the Song dynasty,two kinds of soup from the south associated with it,germinalia chebula and phyllanthus emblica,were also well-known in the north.In the Yuan dynasty,the drink was made popular again for a short time by Xu Guozhen.With the Ming and Qing dynasties,it disappeared as a drink in daily life, but the related knowledge was passed on from generation to generation through the written word,as people tried to preserve the historical memory of the Tang dynasty.The three kinds of fruit had an important position in the diet and medicine of ancient India,with corresponding mythological descriptions.In Persian and Arabic medical literature as well as in Huihui prescriptions(回回药方),sanlejiangis frequently recorded as a medicine or beverage,indicating that it was popular in Persia and the Arab areas.This was different in many respects from its transmission on Chinese soil because of the differences in the relations among Persian,Chinese and Indian cultures.As a cultural transit area,Persia not only offered a second chance for this Indian beverage to be transmitted to foreign parts,but also left the Chinese with a good impression of things Persian.For this reason,the transmission and absorption of dietary customs among China,India and Persia reflect the differences,selection and interaction among the three areas.