双丝双烧色织大提花面料的生产实践

Production of Double-mercerization Double-singeing Colored Jacquard Fabric

探讨双丝双烧色织提花面料的织部主要技术措施。经纱选用细号合股丝光纱,纬纱选用丝光合股纱或单纱,经纬纱均经过丝光烧毛;浆纱工序合理选择浆料配方;染纱工序降低上染速率,防止染色不匀;织造工序控制好后梁高度、开口时间、布面张力等;坯布后整理时再次丝光烧毛,保证布面的光泽度和强力;最终使得织机效率稳定在80%以上,下机一等品率达到95%以上。

Main technology measures in weaving double-mercerization double-singeing colored jacquard fabric were discussed. Fine ply mercerized yarn was selected as warp, mercerized ply or yarn was selected as weft, both weft and warp were mercerized and singed. Sizing instruction was selected rationally. In yarn dyeing process, dyeing velocity was reduced and dyeing unevenness should be prevented. In weaving process, back beam height, shed time and loom tension were controlled well. Gray goods were mercerized and singed again in finishing to ensure fabric surface glossiness and strength. Finally loom efficiency can be kept above 80% ,first grade percentage before cloth repairing can be reached a- bove 95 %.