“福州南宋黄昇墓”服饰的价值重释

Redefining the Value of the Costumes Found in Tombs of Huangsheng of the Mid-13^(th) Century

站在当下构建文化多样性的立场,从文献索引、闽台历史民俗资源调查、服饰技艺类非物质文化遗产保护与传承以及"地方性知识"建构4个维度,对"福州南宋黄昇墓"服饰进行多维价值重释。从考古价值和文献价值上,黄昇墓服饰既丰富了中国服饰史研究中关于南宋部分的实证,又填补了闽文化传统服饰的考古文献空缺,也成为服饰史研究中最常被引用的文献;黄昇墓服饰在刺绣、印染等纺织技术上的成就,既能客观反映宋代闽地纺织工业及技艺的高超,又为后人提供了研究南宋时期闽文化地方性审美意趣的真实范例;同时为构建文化的地方性知识及弘扬地方文化特色,提供了可资借鉴的宝贵财富。

From the standpoint of cultural diversity in our present society, this paper intends to redefine the multi - dimensional values of the costumes found in Tombs of Huangsheng of the m/d-13th Century in the aspects of literature study, survey of the resources of folk customs in Fujian and Taiwan, the protection and inheritance of intangible cultural heritage of clothing technology, and the construction of local knowledge. First, its value of archaeology and literature has not only enriched the proof for the research on Chinese costume studies in Southern Song Dynasty, but also filled the vacancy of archaeological literature on Fujian traditional costumes. This literature has now among the most frequently quoted in the field of clothing history study. Second, the costumes found in Tombs of Huangsheng of the mid-13~ Century show u great technology in embroidery, printing, dyeing and so on. These achievements not only reflect Fujian＇s advanced textile industry and the fine technology in Song Dynasty, but are also good examples for later researchers to study Fujian＇s local aesthetic interest in Southern Song Dynasty. Third, it also provides some valuable references for both the construction of local cultural knowledge and the promotion of local characteristics of culture.