近代江南地区民间大襟袄制作工艺

Workmanship of modern Chinese-style padded coats in Jiangnan area

对近代江南地区民间大襟袄的制作工艺进行了研究分析。通过对江南地区民间服饰工艺传人的调研,对制作近代大襟袄的材料如面料、里料、衬料、填充料、浆糊、缝线以及制作大襟袄的裁剪工艺流程如裁衣身、裁接袖袖片、挖领子、开大襟、裁里襟、裁贴边、裁领子、裁扣子料和缝制工艺如找袖缝、刮浆、缝合、裁里子、装填充物、做领子、钉一字扣和开衩处打套结,逐一进行了记录、复原、分析与研究。江南地区独特的审美观和巧妙的制作工艺,充分地反映了当地人们对于服装穿着舒适性的极高要求和工匠的聪明才智。

Having conducted an inquiry of successors to folk clothing sector in Jiangnan area,this article focuses on the workmanship of modern Chinese-style padded coats in Jiangnan,including the materials such as fabric,lining,stuffing,paste,thread and so on,as well as cutting and manufacturing techniques such as pattern making,cutting of body and sleeves,collar opening,sewing,paste applying,stuff padding,button making,etc.All these steps are recorded,simulated and analyzed.The unique aesthetic view and skillful workmanship in Jiangnan area fully reflect the local people′s high demand on wearing comfort and craftsmen′s intelligence.