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中国时装秀,秀的是什么?

China Fashion Show,What is the Show?
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摘要 时装周是商人的舞台还是设计师的舞台?量产服装和艺术服装的评选规则"一刀切"是否合适?对于设计的考评是否应该考虑穿着者的感受?时装周是不是只是诡异的衣服和思路的秀,而不用考虑穿着者的感受?中国时装界是否已经过早地开始论资排辈?理事和会员一同参评是否公正?这样的情况会对中国的年轻设计师产生怎样的影响?……"中国时装界迷失的不仅是设计方向,同时特有的体制也让我们迷失了和世界接轨的方向。中国的服装主管部门热衷于自娱自乐、自我迷失。而更多的新人在这个迷失的大环境中也随波逐流,迷失了自己。所以我现在对所谓的中国国际时装周都不看了,因为连巴西、丹麦的时装周看点都比中国的多。"这位不愿意透露姓名的业内人士的话也许道出了诸多人的心声,"中国的时装周就是自己跟自己玩。" Is Fashion Week the stage of the merchants or the stage of designers ? Is it appropriate that the selection rules for mass production of clothing and for art clothing are going without any difference?Whether the evaluation of the design should consider the feelings of the wearers? Is Fashion Week only the show of strange clothes and the ideas without any considering the feelings of the wearers?Has the fashion industry in China been premature to start the seniority? Is it fair that the directors and members take part in the selection together? Will such a situation give any impact to the young designers?......'The fashion industry in China has lost direction of design,the unique system also allows us to lose direction of connecting with the world.Administrations of Chinese clothing industry keen to entertain and lose themselves.More new practitioners can't find their directions.So I do not like to visit so-called the China International Fashion Week,even the fashion weeks in Brazil,Denmark are more brilliant than China Fashion Week.' The words of the industry person may be seen as many people's thoughts,'China Fashion Week is playing with itself.'
作者 乌兰 心语
出处 《中国制衣》 2012年第4期16-22,共7页
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