无捻纱捻度设计及织物湿传递性能探讨

Twist Design and Its Fabric Moisture Transfer Performance Research of Twistless Yarn

研究无捻纱的设计要点和无捻纱机织物的湿传递性能。采用捻幅理论模型分析了反向合股法生产无捻纱所需的股线捻度,并进行了验证。比较了无捻纱平纹棉机织物与有捻纱平纹棉机织物的外观、厚度、紧度、透湿量和芯吸高度。试验结果表明:当反向合股捻度等于棉单纱捻度时,股线退维后棉纱可呈现无捻状态;无捻纱机织物的厚度、紧度和透湿量较有捻纱机织物大,无捻纱机织物的芯吸高度大于有捻纱机织物,且织物的经向芯吸高度大于纬向芯吸高度。指出:直径相同的棉纱和PVA短纤纱采用反向合股技术生产无捻纱时,采用的股线捻度应等于棉纱捻度;纱线捻度对织物的透湿状态有一定影响。

Design key points and moisture transfer performance of twistless yarn woven fabric were researched. Ply twist can not be produced by reverse ply method,the reasons were analyzed by twist torque theory model and tested. Appearance, thickness, tightness and wicking height of twistless plain cotton woven fabric and twist plain cotton woven fabric were contrasted. The test results show when reverse ply twist is the same with cotton single yarn twist,retirement PVA yarn can show twistless status. When thickness, tightness and moisture permeability of twisless woven fabric are higher than that of twist woven fabric ,wicking height of twistless woven fabric is higher than that of twist woven fabric and warp wicking height is higher than that of weft wicking height. It is pointed out when twistless yarn is produced by the same diameter cotton yarn and PVA short fiber yarn adopting reverse twist technology. Fabric moisture permeability is efl＇ected by yarn twist in certain.